We’ve been back a couple of weeks and are missing Iceland. It surpassed our expectations and we are looking at going back to do the Western Fjord’s. Sorting through over 2500 photos is time consuming when work gets in the way, however it helps you relive the trip. Some photos Michael has merged to create panoramas and there are definitely going to get some printed to put up at home. I’ve added a few videos.
And we are home
Today is the day you dread on a holiday, the day you return home. Our flight was 7.35am, so that meant 5.30am to check in. Taxi booked 5.15am and paid for by hotel, alarm set for 4am. Who gets up at that ungodly time in the morning. The rain was hammering on the windows so Iceland was obviously crying we were leaving.



Check in was simple and then went to get our duty free tax refund. This can be done on items totalling more than 6000 Isk bought in shops on the island. You fill out the form on your receipt and hand it in before going through security and it is refunded to your credit card. Security and passport control were very easy. Keflavik airport isn’t huge but has plenty of places to eat and duty free shopping to fill in a couple of hours before our flight was called. We have eaten so much this holiday, breakfast today was a ham and cheese bagel, juice and a coffee.


Flight boared on time. It was quite busy but we had a spare seat next to us. It was still raining but take off was fine. The flight time is only 1 hour 50 minutes but you do get a complimentary drink. We both read a bit and I listened to some Icelandic music. I didn’t realise it was children’s music until they started singing the hokey cokie and Postman Pat in Icelandic. We landed at Glasgow at 10.35. Passport control, collected luggage, cleared customs and at the parking garage by 11.15 so quite good. Note to self, remember to check what level you parked the car on before you get to the garage. Michael said level 2 so we went to level 2. No car. Then he checked the photo, level 3, back in the lift, no car. I checked my phone notes, level 1, back in the lift. Yipppeeee we found the car. We head out for the 3 hour drive home. A couple of coffee stops later and we are back home by 3pm.
This holiday has been 15 years in the planning and has exceeded our expectations. Iceland is a rugged, awe-inspiring, beautiful country with the most friendly, relaxed people. Being able to spend 16 days here allowed us to see so much of the island and find places that are not as well known. The tour guides we had were exceptional and enhanced all of the trips we did. Although the time of year is still off season the weather we had was brilliant and nearly everywhere we went was relatively quiet, other than Reykjavik allowing us to get some great photos. We do have over 2000 photos to sort through as well as hours of video. Word of the holiday is LIGHTS – me reminding Michael to put the lights on in the car as it’s a legal requirement to have your headlights on at all times.
Thank you to Trailfinders for helping us plan our amazing holiday and thank you for reading my blog (and to Lesley for the encouragement to write it). I have really enjoyed doing it and I hope some of you are going to plan a trip to Iceland now.

We visited America
Today is our last day, the weather has changed to rain and apparently it was 0 degrees last night. We had a nice breakfast in the hotel. Not a huge selection but it was nice and had a fancy coffee machine which hit the spot.

We set off to visit the bridge between two continents. One couple leaving as we got there and no other cars in the car park. However major fail was for 15 days we have taken hats, gloves and waterproofs with us but hardly used them. Not today and it was freezing. We took some photos, nipped over to America, then jumped back in the car as two bus loads of children turned up.




Next we headed back into Reykjavik to visit Perlan, a museum about the geological history, how settlers found it and how it has changed. There is a planetarium with a show about the Aurora, displays about volcanos, earthquakes, and glaciers. Lots of hands on stuff. They also have an ice cave, a 360 degree viewing platform and a cafe. Views from the last two would be great on a clear day. We stayed a couple of hours, it was very interesting. We also picked up some lava rocks from a very famous eruption which we’ve had dealings with before.






Once done we headed back into the city as we wanted to take some more photos in the cathedral. A slow walk down the hill and into 101 bistro for tea. We decided that as it’s our last day we should go with one of Iceland’s staple dishes and as we didn’t fancy hot dogs we went for one last fish and chips and it didn’t disapoint.

We left Reykjavik for the last time at 4.15pm. We had arranged to drop the car off at the airport at 6pm and as we didn’t know what the traffic would be like we set off early. It took about an hour.
We have noticed lots of stone art dotted randomly around the country and managed to get a photo of the first we saw on our way to the airport. We had use Enterprise for our car hire and they have been brilliant. The car was fab to drive, the information they gave us re driving in Iceland was invaluable, free second driver and wifi hub and they even dropped us back at our hotel.

Back at the hotel we had a quick coffee, sorted our transfer to the airport tomorrow morning then decided on a quick half an hour in the roof top hot tub before packing. We have had the most amazing holiday. I will do a final blog tomorrow once we get home to round things off.

Sky Lagoon
Today we left Reykholt to move to our final hotel. We went for breakfast at 9.25 and it was really busy. I think a lot of people had been for meals on Saturday night and stayed over. We said goodbye to probably the best hotel of the holiday and headed to Reykjavik. The sun was shining so it was a lovely drive. I wonder if Björk ever lived here.

We took a short cut through the tunnel under the sea, 6km long. We got parked quite easily in the city centre and headed for a coffee. Then some last minute shopping. There was a huge parade walking past with bands playing, lots of flags waving and very civilised. We found out this is a labour day parade and takes place every 1st May.
Once we were finished shopping we headed to Fossvogur where there are graves from British and Allied troops from WW2 in Commonwealth War Graves. One of Michael’s relatives, Philip Woodger, was on the SS Empire Wave when she was torpedoed in 1941. He managed to survive 14 days adrift in a lifeboat with 22 other crew. 3 of those men died and are buried in the cemetery so we went to pay our respects and lay a wreath.


Then we went to the Sky Lagoon. A man made lagoon which only opened in 2021. This was definitely a very relaxing 3 hours. There is a large lagoon with an infinity edge looking over the bay, a waterfall, a swim up bar and lots of rocks with inwater seats. The water was a perfect temperature and although the car park looked busy there was plenty of room in the lagoon. We spent about an hour in the lagoon including having a non alcoholic fizzy wine. We had paid for the Pure package which included the 7 step ritual. You do them in order: lagoon, cold plunge pool, sauna with a view, cold mist, cleansing scrub, steam room and finally a shower. We came out feeling amazing. A free glass of water, then we spent another hour or so in the lagoon. We spent 3 hours at the Sky Lagoon in total and it was worth every penny. It is cheaper than the Blue Lagoon and more adult oriented but not having done the Blue Lagoon its hard to compare. There is a restaurant serving snacks and a shop but we didn’t stop.




Eventually it was time to head to our final hotel, Hotel Berg near Keflavik Airport. It was about a 40 minute drive and we stopped at Olsen Olsen for a quick burger before checking in. It seems nice with a small roof top pool. Downside no kettle in room. Tomorrow is our final full day in Iceland before an early flight back to Glasgow.

Horse riding and hot tubs
We are nearly at the end of our amazing holiday. Today we didn’t have anything planned so had a leisurely breakfast.
I had hoped to go riding but hadn’t booked anything. We’d found a stables on TripAdvisor which the hotel reception told us was just 5 minutes down the road, unfortunately there was no phone number so we decided to take a chance and just call in. The stable was called Sturlureykirk and the owener Hrafnhildur was very helpful. They had no one booked to ride today so she was more than happy to take me out. I was given a helmet and gloves before she introduced me to Princess. I helped groom her before she was sadled and ready to go.
We set off on a 45 minute ride through their farm land, down to the river via the hot spring. We walked, trotted and tölt, a specific gait used only by Icelandic horses. The owner explained all about her family, the stables and the horses.
Once back she took us both to see the hot spring at the back of the farm and showed us where and how they cooked rye bread. Then we went back to the cafe for a coffee and to try the bread. This was an amazing experience and I am so pleased I got to ride whilst I was out here.




After our coffee we headed off to look for more waterfalls. We drove about 10km to Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. One with lots of water, the other was a bit special as the water comes through the porus rock. We crossed the river and walked a short way over a lava field.




We finished taking our photos and I eventually plucked up the courage to have a try driving the car. We made it back to the hotel in one piece but I think I prefer being a passenger. The weather was glorious so we headed to the spa. A fab plan as no one else there.




A fab afternoon relaxing. Hot tub, plunge pool, sauna, steam room and egg chairs. I don’t think I can fit the egg chair in my suitcase.


We headed out to Borgarnes, about 30 minutes drive away for tea. Pizza at a little restaurant called La Colina. Good homemade pizza. Then it was back to the hotel for a drink before moving on to our last hotel tomorrow.



Hotel number 7
Today we left Akureyri to travel to Reykholt. It’s a three and a half hour drive, twisting and turning between valleys and mountains. Huge river beds and snow capped mountains.


Our first stop was at Reykjfoss waterfall. The road took a bit of finding but after driving over a bit of what looked like a bridge hiding trolls we found the car park. We walked for about 15 minutes before the waterfall came into view. Full of white water crashing over a decent drop. We walked a bit further to a hot natural pool but decided against taking a dip.

We made a quick coffee and cake stop before heading on to Grabrok crater. This is the largest of 3 craters in a row and you can walk up and around the edge. The initial climb is a bit steep but there are wooden stairs right up to the top. The view into the crater is amazing and you can see where the lava flow went. You could also see for miles in all directions from the rim.



A short drive and we reached our final waterfall of the day. Glanni. Another beautiful full white fall. What we have noticed at every waterfall we have been to is that trying to take selfies is hard due to the sun being in our eyes, but better that than it raining.




Our hotel for the next 2 nights is Fosshotel Reykholt, the 3rd Fosshotel of the trip. After the disappointment of the last one we were a bit nervous however from stepping into reception it was amazing. The staff were very friendly, explained about the charge to use the spa (a one off fee for the whole stay), then wished us a happy anniversary. They told us we were in room no 008 which was on floor -1. Our room is beautiful, we have a patio, a view of the mountains and the hotel has left us a lovely hand written card and some delicious petit fours.




We quickly got our cases, paid for the spa access and headed to the outdoor hot tub. 40 degrees with a stunning view. 30 minutes was enough and I was brave enough to have a quick dip in the very cold tub. Then we went in the sauna and steam room. Lovely but only for 5 minutes. A quick shower then we chilled in the egg chairs. Could have quite easily fallen asleep.



Dinner was booked for 6.45 so we had a drink at the bar first. Beer for Michael, Northern Lights cocktail for me. The menu for a bit high brow again but we both found something to eat. Foccacia bread between us then Michael had baked brie followed by beef tenderloin, I had tomato soup followed by salmon with vegetables and a coconut curry. It was lovely but may need to look for somewhere else for tomorrow night. After our meal we had a lovely walk around Reykholt. They have boards scattered around telling you bits of history about the village.






Lazy day and the story of Eider duck farm
After yesterday’s busy day and having nothing planned we decided to have a lazy day today. We had stayed up late to try and see the aurora borealis as our phone app’s were saying we might see them but no luck, we did get a lovely photo of the cathedral though so didn’t go down for breakfast till 9.15 this morning. It was very quiet. We then went for a walk around the town only to find most places don’t open till 11am. We don’t know if this is all year round or just in the off season.



Into the car and we decided to take a drive along the west coast of the Eyjafjordur. Lots of little villages dotted along the route and spectacular views of the beautiful fjord. Eventually we reach a single carriage way tunnel through a mountain with passing places inside. On the other side of the tunnel was the village of Olafsfjordur. It has a harbour, a lake and by law it has to have a swimming pool, but no snowmen.



We then decided to drive back to Goddafoss as we hadn’t seen the waterfall from the other side yesterday. A quick cup of coffee then we walked up to this beautiful waterfall again. Again not many people around.


Next we headed back to Akureyri to have a quick look around the town. After a look in the shops we decided to eat at Bautinn again. We had mozzarella sticks as a starter, chicken and beef tacos and fries, finished off with apple pie and blueberry sorbet with popping candy. I had an elderflower mocktail and Michael had a coke. We have noticed that every restaurant or food outlet brings you water automatically or it’s available for you to get free.




I forgot to mention the Eider duck farm story yesterday. Thor told us if he wasn’t a tour guide he would love to be an Eider duck farmer. We were a bit worried he meant to eat but he explained that Eider duck farmers build shelters for the wild Eider ducks to shelter and nest in. The ducks raise their chicks and when they leave in the autumn to travel to Europe the farmers collect all of the feathers left behind. Phew. The Northumberland Cuddy duck is safe. We move hotels again tomorrow so time to reshuffle case contents again.
Day trip
Today we had booked a day trip to Goddafoss and Lake Myvan. We were up early for breakfast to ensure we were ready. Breakfast was ok. Not as much choice as some of the other hotels but still fine. We were picked up at 9 in a small minibus by Thor from Star Travel. There were only 2 other guests on the bus and we only had 1 other person to pick up, a trainee tour guide.
First stop was at Goddafoss, the waterfall of the gods. It is a beautiful horseshoe waterfall and you can get right down to the waters edge but you will get wet. When we got there it was still very quiet. There is also a shop, cafe and toilets.


We moved on to Lake Myvatn, the 4th largest lake in Iceland. It is a community of about 500 residents who live and work around the lake. The lake was created from lava flows and has created a haven for bird life. The wind today was non existent so the reflections on the lake were amazing.


We continued around the lake passing areas in the lava fields that were used in Game of Thrones. Next stop was Dinnuborgir lava tubes. The story is there were Trolls living here and they move around at night, however if they get caught in the daylight they turn to stone. This area is unbelievable. They also say the Yule lads live here and you can come and see them before Christmas.

Thor then took us to Grjotagja, an underground hot pool. There are 2 pools and locals used to use them to bath in but no one is allowed to anymore. You can go in the cave and put your hands in the very warm water. Above the cave there is a crevice allowing the hot water to seep into it.



Another visit to Namafjall Hverir, still doesn’t smell any better but we did see the bubbling mud. Our final stop was the Myvatn natural baths. We had lunch before going into the pool. I had goulash and Michael had a ham sandwich. We paid to enter the pool, hire towels and ordered a soft drink each. You have to shower naked before putting your bathing suit on, then you are all set to go. There is a steam room, hot tub and 2 pools where all the water is from Landsvirkjun’s bore hole. The lagoon is natural and has sulphur and silica in the water. It has a beautiful blue colour and the views of the lava field’s and snow capped volcanoes were unbelievable. You definitely felt like you were on another planet. We spent about 70 minutes in the pool and again we were lucky as it wasn’t very busy.
Once out we headed back to Akureyri. Thor was an amazing guide. All throughout the trip he was telling us about the history of the area. This was made even better as his family were from the area so he could tell us very personal stories.



Once back at the hotel we got sorted and headed out for tea. We chose Bautinn, a lovely restaurant opposite our hotel. I had salmon and Michael had cod. Delicious. Nowhere open for dessert so we went back to the hotel for a drink to end another wonderful day.



I wish we had smell-o-blog.
Today we headed off to Akureyri, Iceland’s second largest town. Breakfast was ok, not a huge selection but what was there was nice apart from the chia pudding and the liquid cod liver oil to try. We set off at 9 and the sat nav said 3 hours 15 to destination. Once out of Egilsstadir the road started to climb luckily today’s visibility was clear. There was still a lot of snow at the higher elevation with lakes still being frozen. There was also numerous waterfalls so we stopped at a few to take photos.





We continued to ascend reaching a maximum height of 600m. I wish we had noticed the altimeter yesterday to see how high we climbed. Next we stopped briefly at Namafjall, a geothermal area of hot springs and mud pools. There is a thick sulpher smell and areas of the ground are scorched yellow. The safe areas to walk are marked by a rope path.


Back in the car and a quick drive to Lake Myvatn (midge lake) for a coffee and a hot dog.

The final part of the trip was quicker than planned as we went through a 7km tunnel. You have to pay to use the tunnel but it cut 30 minutes off our trip. We arrived in Akureyri at 2.30 so decided to visit the Christmas Garden. This is free to go in and has a small Christmas village, the world’s largest advent calendar and a Christmas shop. The owner was very friendly and explained the story of the Yule Lads and some other Icelandic Christmas traditions. He even gave us some laufabraud, a thin, crisp flat bread fried in sheep fat, to try.



We then headed to Hotel Kea. We are on the 5th floor with a partial view of the waterfront and the church. While unpacking we saw 4 fighter jets fly over. We have since found out they are Italian and are here as part of NATO. We has a quick walk along the main street then went to Hamborgarafabrikkan for tea. I had a Mexican chicken burger and Michael had ribs. We then went to the ice cream shop for dessert. We went in a local book shop where I bought a book of Icelandic Christmas stories and a funny book on Icelandic birds.


We then walked along the waterfront past the art centre and then along to the Sigling, a sculpture made by the same artist who made the Sun Voyager in Reykjavik and is meant to represent a sailing ship. It is just as beautiful as its sister piece.

Back to the hotel to sort out our bags for tomorrow’s bus trip then down to the bar for a quick drink however our order got lost in translation. Michael got a Jack Daniels but it came with rose lemonade and was awful. I got a cocktail called a Basil berry which was lovely however Michael had been asking about cider first and when the order came they brought that too so we ended up sharing the extra cider.

The long foggy road.
Today we left Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon and are moving to the Icelandair Hotel in Egilsstadir. This is a 4 and half hour drive. We had planned to visit the Icelandic War Museum, however it is shut on a Monday so we decided to just stop adhoc. As we were passing the Diamond beach we stopped to take some more photos. Trying to be artistic and not get wet is quite hard due to the force the waves crash onto the beach.




We set off along the 1 and the weather was ok, a bit overcast but fine. We passed our 1st reindeers before stopping in Hofn, a small town on a peninsula, for a quick coffee. As we started again we noticed clouds descending down a mountain. We drove through the mountain and once out the other side the clouds / fog hit.

The 1 hugs the coast line and on a sunny day must be stunning however not today. We did stop at a couple of waterfalls but not the best weather for photos. After another 90 minutes we stopped at Vid Voginn in Djupivogur, a small town similar to Seahouses. We had coffee, hot chocolate and happy marriage cake. The owner explained newly engaged ladies would make this cake using rhurbarb to prove to their fiance they would make a good wife. On leaving the town we passed a playground with reindeer feeding on the grass.



The road continued and then the sat nav told us to go up a non tarmaced road. We checked Google maps and realised it would cut 45 minutes off our journey. This was a very long, windy, uneven and steep in places road. It was wide enough for 2 cars to pass but some sides of the road had snow higher than the car where it jad been ploughed and visibility was down to about 20m in places due to the fog. I am so pleased Michael was driving.

Eventually we rejoined the 1 and made it to our hotel for the night. We have a lovely room with L’Occitacne products and a small view of the lake. We were unable to have a meal at the hotel so went to Salt cafe and bistro and had deep dish pizza before a well earned drink in the hotel bar. We are only here 1 night as off to Akureyri tomorrow.



